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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.